Installing Custom Back Up Lights


Don't be intimidated by this project.  It's easier than it sounds.  The biggest thing you should worry about is drilling holes into your car :-)  I have an old truck and not to upset with it having yet another hole in it.  But I can see if it was a newer car being worried a bit.  Below is the end result.  See the small light mounted at the front, towards the bottom of the truck bed?  I mounted the lights there instead of under the bumper so I would have light not behind me but also on the sides as well. 


Quick note:  Yes, the truck is dirty as hell, would have made for nicer pictures if it was washed, but just didn't feel like washing it right then and there.  ;-)

Money Saving Tip!:  Electrical wire will cost you about 4 bucks for 25 - 28 feet.  I found that by buying a spool of 100 feet, it only costs 8 bucks.  Get twice as much for the same price.  If you are like me, at some point...you WILL need the rest of it.
 

Items Needed

1 pair of Small Fog lights
drill and drill bits
2 brackets (I made mine out of some metal I had)
16 gage wire (can get from any auto parts store)
Electrical tape
Wire ties

Soldering gun and solder (not necessary but good idea)
Wire cutters or knife
Pliers
Screw driver


Alright, you got your stuff all together and ready to do the deed.  Below is a picture of needed items.  Notice that there is a multimeter, an item I thought I would need, but didn't.  The project turned out easier than I had first thought.



I needed to know which wire I would need to splice into so that when the reverse lights came on so would the new back up lights.  I removed one of my tail lights to look behind it and see what color wire went to the reverse lights.  In my case, it's the black with purple stripe wire.  Yours may be
different especially if your vehicle is not a Ford.  See picture below for wire needed.

 

You can mount the small fog lights on the body itself, I choose to make a bracket to attach them.  I simply took a piece of metal and cut it up to be about the size I wanted.  In my case I had a missing mud flap in the back so I yanked the other off and used it.  I'll get another set of mud flaps down the road some other time.

So with newly made brackets in hand, I drilled 4 holes in each bracket.  2 for mounting the bracket to the truck's body and 2 for the fog light mounting bracket.  I then went under my truck and placed the bracket up against the inner wall where the bracket would be mounted.  I then drilled a pilot hole for each of the holes that I would use to mount the bracket to the body.  Moved the bracket away and drilled each hole all the way through. 

 
Quick note: Like I said, you can mount the lights to the body itself, same number of holes would need to be drilled.  The reason I choose a bracket is for aiming proposes.  The fog light mount will allow you to move the light from side to side once mounted.  But if you wanted to move the fog light up and down you wouldn't be able to do so if the fog lights were mounted right to the body.  The added bracket will bend if need be to aim the light better.

Ok, so we got that puppy mounted, looks good.  It's small and out of the way. See Below.



Now we need to wire that sucker for power.  Remember I pulled back the tail light and found the wire that goes to the reverse lights.  That wire runs underneath the length of the truck all the way up to the instrument panel into the cab of the truck.  I found the wires close to where I had mounted the first fog light.  I pulled the black with purple stripe wire away from the rest of the wires as well as the ground wire (which is always solid black).  I striped back some of the wiring on each to connect my fog light wires to, see picture below.



The fog light kit came with a wire harness.  The replacement bulbs for these lights are all one unit.  It's not like you pull the bulb out and insert a new one.  You replace the bulb, the connector and the wires.  The harness is used to be able to disconnect and reconnect the replacement bulb unit quickly.  So I connected the harness up to the wires coming from the fog light and taped them up with electrical tape. 

I then cut the other end of the wires coming from the wire harness and pulled off about an inch worth of the rubber sleeve to expose bare wire. 

I then ran these wires to the two wires I pulled and stripped back underneath the truck, twisted them around the appropriate corresponding wire.  Your fog lights will have either red and black wires or white and black wires.  The black wire is always the ground wire.  The other being the hot or positive wire.

The wires running underneath the vehicle usually run up closer to the side of the driver.  So you'll find one of the lights can be wired straight to the wires underneath.  The other light will need some additional wiring spliced to it.  I bought a spool of red and yellow, I would have preferred red and black, but the store was out of black.  I found one of the wires for the fog light on the passenger side would run all the way to the wires underneath, the ground wire for the fog light wire harness needed some extra wire spliced to it.  I measured out a few feet of wire and striped the end to twist it with the fog light's harness end.  I then soldered it and taped it tight.

I will also be soldering the wires from the fog lights to the wires underneath the truck to make them permanent.  But first I want to test them out to make sure I hooked them up correctly.



Now if you just ran the light wires straight to the wires underneath to twist them together and test it out it is now time to run the wires underneath the body frame properly.  To properly run wires underneath your vehicle you need to keep the wires as close to the body as possible to prevent the wires from snagging onto something while driving.  You also want to make sure they do not rub against any sharp edges. 

In my case I used cable ties to help pin up the wires closer to the body as seen in the picture below.
 


I also had a spot that had a sharp edge that I couldn't get around.  So what I did was take some good old duct tape and wrap several times around the wires that would be rubbing the edge.  I used lengths of about 6 inches to wrap around the wires to ensure only the duct tapped parts would be rubbing up against the edges.  And if clean enough, tape several strips of duct tape to the edge itself.

Ok, so now the lights have been tested out.  Time to make this deal set in stone.  I ran an extension cord out to my truck and plugged in my solder gun.  Soldered a big ole wad of solder onto the point where the wires from my fog lights are twisted together with the vehicle wires I stripped.  It isn't pretty, but those wires aren't going anywhere!     



I tapped up the soldered points good and called it a done deal.  The picture below shows each fog light on either side on.  Notice the brightness of the new lights compared to the factory tail lights.
 

 


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